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Reply With QuoteA few more pictures of the frame.
I have to say that this is not gospel when it comes to setting up early frames. It's merely what has worked for me in the past, and is the way I do most of my builds. This is a 27 chevy frame.
I usually use a ford style front suspension on my chevys because I can get them a little lower with the transverse spring. For this application I got a 40 ford unit that the owner wanted to go to a mustang 2 style, it had a magnum 4 inch dropped I beam axle. The only thing I used was the axle and the split bones, sold the rest to pay for a new spring and other parts.
I started by taking off the old front suspension and adding a permanent spreader bar across the front to stablize the frame while I worked on it.
The cross member I used was a speedway model A dropped unit. It's imprtant to set the cross member with a 7 to 9 degree kick back to keep the spring from binding.
I cut the original cross member out and added the speedway uinit.
I then made some front frame boxing plates, and added them.
I ordered some split bones mounting tabs, and once I got the angle of the axle king pins set, between 7 and 9 degrees back. I found a good spot on the frame and welded these in place. When using split bones on a build there are not too many adjustments for setting up the degree of the axle afterwards, so it's important to get it as close as you can the first time.
I like that set up!! the only piece I have to contribute to my 'official rod' so far is a stock front axle from a 57 chevy pickup that i put a 5" drop axle on last year!! its complete spindle to spindle, but it could use some new kingpins, they are not tight at all... and i know i can find disk brake kits pretty cheap for it too- just a matter of time, and finding the right pieces i guess.. being home wouldnt hurt either~
On my next build a 29 chevy 3 window. I am going to use a 38 plymouth truck beam axle with front to back springs. I will use the stock drum braking on this one. I am going for the gasser or old altered look, so I want it to sit a little higher in the nose. I have everything for the set up except the leaf springs at this time.Originally Posted by ratORbust
John
I did box the chevy frame front to back, but all that consists of is using plate steel close to the same thickness or larger as the original. so I will talk about the rear suspension. before boxing, I outline where the mounting points for the triangulated 4 link rear suspension will be located. This has to do with the axle and the frame. I usually buy the stainless kit because of the added strenth and not the beauty, And it comes with all the needed hardware except the coil over shocks. The frame usually is set to ride height and leveled side to side, after that the rear axle is lined up and set into position for the wanted ride height using bar stock tacked to the frame, and the rear axle to hold it in place. I make sure the face of the housing or where the gear set is installed is set at 2 degrees down towards the front of the car. The lower bars are set close to level with the ground, and they should measure equal to each othe side to side. The upper bars are set level with the lower bars but are degreed equal to each other from the center pumpkin out towards the lower bar front frame mounts giving it a triangle look. At this poingt all is tacked into place and I cut the support bars away and check for movement in the suspension. I do not tighten the adjusting bolts ever. I start by raising one side of the axle and then the other. If nothing is binding through out full movement I weld it up solid, and start locating the upper shock mounts since the lower ones are part of the kit. I like the triangulated kit because of the amount of adjustments it has over a leaf spring suspension. And stock car and drag racers can't be all wrong.
One more thing that you showed us that is great looking and strong....I can build a double triangulated four-link with my eyes closed almost... I am kind of a 'rock krawler' at heart!!!! the first couple i attempted were complicated,, but after a half dozen I could damn near eyeball them within a 1/4" of parrellel!! Now I have them on almost everything!! i love the ride, the adjustability, and the flexability of them!!
Rock crawler suspension is amazing in the way it moves. The triangulated suspension made it's way into all sorts of builds and is kinda like the old chevy trailing arm suspension that was used in the early stock cars for dirt track racing.
If it works keep using it...John
Ps. Another way to tell if it's set up right is under load.
For this I did a smokey burnout with the 28 chevy and it launched straight and true. WHAT A BLAST.
Good question I haven't had a need for one on a few other projects, but I did notice a little more roll to the 28 body than I like. I am going to lower the rear of the car by about 1 1/2 inches and see if that helps. If that doesn't help, the sway bar at least for the rear might be in order.
On this build I decided to use a low mileage 67 nova 283 and powerglide set up, (at this time) On setting the engine and trans I installed the master cylinder and booster in there position, and also installed the steering box in it's location. I don't like to be surprised later with things not fitting. I then leveled and got the frame to ride height, and set the body in it's position. Remember I moved the firewall back 5 inches and used every bit of the space in setting the engine back. At this point I set the engine and trans in the chassis to its final position, keeping in mind about scrub line in case of a flat tire or loosing a wheel, (Heaven forbid) Making sure the engine and trans clears all the above mentioned items, I leveled the carberator plain and this in turn should give you a final resting place for the engine and trans.
The plate steel I used for the engine mount was chrome molly, and the tube welded to it was just a heavy steel tube. For the transmission mount again it was 1 1/2 inch chrome molly tubing, with a homemade mount welded to it. Bent with my cheap harbor freight bender.The side brackets on the trans mount to the frame were made from old front spring perches off the chevy.
I guess we are a little bit green recycling when it comes to these old cars.
I think it might get a bit bulky With the control arm style front suspension. It might go under the roadster, but for all your work the value of the car later on would suffer in the long run.
Do you have the original frame and suspension for the roadster? And do you plan on running it fendered or open wheel? AND WHAT DO YOU WANT FOR THE ROADSTER????
BIG SMILE....John
I was going to build it as a full fendered car , with the addition of a chop to be finished with a Miata conv. top , with glass cut to fit the top . I do still have the frame and all , I have taken the body apart because the wood is rotten and just falling apart . The reason behind the s-10 frame , is because I want to be able to drive it hard , like I do everything else that I own . The straight axle front will limit me on how it will take a corner . I have a LT1 wiyh aluminum heads that will be installed with a 5- speed , to make it that much more fun to drive . My son is into drifting , he always tells me that you can't drift with a street rod , HE WILL BE PROVED WRONG !
Well funds have been a little tight for quite awhile, but I decided if I can't pay to get the frame blasted and powder coated. I might as well instead of just sitting around, clean up the frame and paint it my self. I spent about 4 hrs grinding off the rust. It felt good to get really dirty, there is still more to do, but that's for tomorrow and for now I am sitting on my ASS again and that also feels good.
John
As I said on another thread the frame is ready for paint as soon as I get a warmer day. I like to shoot large dark colored items like frames and such in my driveway. I just throw a tarp down on a mild day and get after it. As soon as it's painted I will put a build thread together for the 27 assembly. I think I have decided to run a high horsepower 69 350 engine, and built turbo 350 transmission, instead of the 283 and power glide. I decided I HAVE A NEED FOR SPEED.
It's the gold engine in the frame picture.
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